Collection: Aquamarine Jewelry

Aquamarine is beryl, the same mineral......

About

Aquamarine Jewelry

Q: What is the birthstone for March?

Aquamarine is March's birthstone, a member of the beryl family colored blue by traces of iron. The Romans named it for seawater, aqua marina, and sailors carried it as a talisman for safe passage, a piece of folklore that has followed the stone for two thousand years. Beryl crystals grow unusually large and unusually clean, which gives aquamarine two qualities most colored stones cannot offer together: significant size and glassy transparency. That combination shaped how jewelers have always used it, cutting generous stones that show off clarity and letting the cool blue carry the piece. For a March birthday it is one of the most versatile stones on the calendar, at home in an heirloom and in something entirely modern.

Q: How is aquamarine related to emerald?

They are the same mineral. Beryl colored green by chromium or vanadium is emerald; beryl colored blue by iron is aquamarine; colored pink by manganese it becomes morganite. Same crystal structure, same hardness, different trace elements, and dramatically different personalities. Aquamarine tends to grow in larger, cleaner crystals than its green sibling, so the two stones developed opposite traditions: emerald is prized for color above all and worn with reverence, while aquamarine offers clarity and scale that invite bolder cutting. Knowing they are family is more than trivia; it explains why aquamarine wears with the same refinement as emerald while asking considerably less caution day to day.

Q: What color should I look for in an aquamarine?

Fine aquamarine runs from a pale, icy blue to the saturated, slightly greenish-blue the trade calls Santa Maria after the Brazilian mine that set the standard. Deeper color generally commands more attention, but pale aquamarine has its own tradition; Art Deco jewelers in particular loved the lighter stones for the way they read against platinum and white gold. Most aquamarine comes out of the ground with a green cast, and gentle heating to shift it toward pure blue has been standard, stable practice for generations; it should simply be assumed and disclosed. Look for even color, high clarity, since the stone is expected to be clean to the eye, and a cut that keeps the blue lively rather than washed out.

Q: Is aquamarine durable enough for everyday wear?

Yes, comfortably. Beryl measures 7.5 to 8 on the Mohs scale, harder than quartz and most of what a ring encounters in a normal day, without the cleavage problems that make some stones of similar hardness nervous choices. Aquamarine engagement rings and daily-wear rings have long track records for exactly this reason. Earrings, pendants, and bracelets require no special thought at all. The usual common sense applies, remove rings for heavy lifting and abrasive work, but among colored stones aquamarine sits in the small group we recommend without caveats for a piece meant to be worn constantly rather than occasionally.

March Birthstone Aquamarine: Santa Maria & Retro Gold
From the Journal

March Birthstone: The Beauty of Aquamarine

Why the clean blue beryl became an Art Deco favorite, how to judge its color, and where it fits in a modern rotation

Read the Guide