The By Filigree Collection: Built on Decades of Vintage Expertise
By Filigree is Filigree Jewelers' in-house line of finished, ready-to-wear fine jewelry designed by a team with over 25 years in the business and a family legacy in estate jewelry spanning four decades.
Every piece uses repurposed metals and hand-selected diamonds sourced from existing jewelry, from Old European Cuts to modern round brilliants.
The collection spans engagement rings, tennis bracelets, earrings, cocktail rings, pendants, and necklaces.
Construction details like hand-applied milgrain, open gallery work, and hand engraving come directly from studying how the best vintage and antique pieces were built.
Any piece can be customized or replicated to spec, but the line is designed to be worn as-is.
Our By Filigree collection is where vintage, modern, and experience come together. Over the decades, we've seen and handled thousands of vintage and estate pieces. As the best of these become harder to source, we've taken on a new approach: our team hand-selects materials from pieces that come through the shop, then applies everything we've learned about design and construction to new work. By Filigree is where all of that knowledge lives.
What Is the By Filigree Collection?
By Filigree is our take on future modernism. Antique-cut stones, repurposed metals, and design principles that have proven themselves over a hundred years of fine jewelry, applied to pieces that feel entirely current. From everyday studs to show-stopping engagement rings, the line is an evolution that mirrors what our clients have been drawn to for years.
We've helped thousands of people find their forever pieces. That gives you a strong sense of what translates into jewelry that holds up, not just physically but in how much someone loves wearing it five years in. The By Filigree collection is built on that.
Every piece is one of one. The collection isn't tied to a single era or aesthetic. Someone who loves the warmth of antique design will see it here. Someone who wants something entirely modern will find that too. What's consistent is a standard of construction that comes from working with the real thing for a long time.
Any piece can be customized or replicated to your specifications, but the line is designed to stand on its own. These are finished pieces, not starting points for a custom project.
How Are By Filigree Pieces Designed and Built?
By Filigree pieces are a combination of vintage and modern sensibilities. In our travels, we come across antique items that have lived their full life. The design might be tired, or the mounting too worn for restoration. In those cases, we take the piece apart and repurpose the materials for their next life. We're trying to recapture something from eras when jewelry was built by hand and jewelers were working as true artisans.
That shows up in specific places. The milgrain edging on a By Filigree ring is applied by hand with a knurling tool, one pass at a time. On a production ring, milgrain gets stamped into the casting. Hand-applied milgrain has slight variation in the beading, and it sits tighter to the metal because it's worked directly into the surface. It takes longer, but the difference is visible.
Hand engraving is cut into the metal with a graver, not etched by laser. Settings are shaped to follow the contour of a specific diamond rather than a standard template. The gallery, the metal framework beneath the stone, is open and detailed, built the way galleries were built in the 1920s when jewelers gave the underside of a ring the same attention as the face.
We draw on techniques from every major era: the platinum lacework of Edwardian rings, the geometric precision of Art Deco, the bold gold work of the Retro period (1935–1950). What comes out isn't a copy of any one era. It's everything we've learned about what holds up and what looks right, put into new pieces.
How Does By Filigree Select Stones?
Every diamond in the collection comes from existing jewelry. We pull stones from pieces that come through the shop, and the inventory spans cuts from across the last two centuries. Old European Cuts with their higher crowns and broader facets, cut by hand for candlelight, with a warmer, softer flash than anything modern. Old Mine Cuts with their cushion shape and open culets. Rose cuts with flat bottoms and faceted domes that glow more than they sparkle. And modern round brilliants from estate pieces, with the sharp, clean fire that certain designs call for.
Which stone goes in which setting is a specific call. An OEC in a platinum filigree halo throws broad, warm light. A round brilliant in a clean bezel gives you that sharp white sparkle. A slightly warmer OEC might be exactly right for a yellow gold ring where a whiter stone would look cold. A brilliant with good spread might sit well in a geometric mounting where an Old Mine Cut would fight the lines. We've been making these decisions for a long time, and it's one of the parts of the process we enjoy most.
Beyond Engagement Rings: The Full Collection
The By Filigree line goes well beyond rings. Diamond tennis bracelets built with the same hand-selected stones and the same attention to how a piece moves on the wrist. Earrings with gallery work and finishing that match what you'd find on our engagement rings. Cocktail rings with antique-cut diamonds in settings that let the stone's character show. Pendants and necklaces designed with the weight and balance we've learned matters most from years of hearing what our clients reach for every day.
If you own a By Filigree ring and the way it was made is what drew you to it, the rest of the collection is built the same way.
More from By Filigree
We build By Filigree pieces the way we do because we've had the benefit of spending a long time with the best vintage and antique jewelry out there. The hand milgrain, the gallery construction, the stone selection: these are details we've seen hold up after fifty, eighty, a hundred years of wear. We wanted to bring that into new pieces, and that's what this collection is.
Ready to see these pieces in person?
Browse the collection online or come see them at our North Loop showroom.
Tuesday–Friday 11AM–6PM · Saturday 11AM–5PM