Quick Summary
Upgrading means starting fresh with a larger natural diamond center—not modifying your original ring, but designing a new one that reflects who you are now and what you've accomplished.
Choose vintage for immediate access to period-specific craftsmanship (Art Deco, Edwardian, Victorian) with hand-executed details, or choose custom to control every specification from exact proportions to profile height and comfort features.
Budget based on visual impact, not arbitrary numbers: substantial upgrades (double the original size), significant upgrades (2.50-4.00 carats), or exceptional upgrades (museum-quality pieces or 4.00+ carat centers).
Your original center stone becomes something you'll actually wear—diamond studs for daily rotation, a layering pendant, or a cocktail ring for special occasions—keeping the sentiment active, not stored away.
Custom design takes 45-60 days from consultation through diamond selection and final fabrication—bringing inspiration photos, lifestyle notes, and any stones you're repurposing to your first appointment.
Many of our clients have come to us over the years for an engagement ring upgrade. The reasons to upgrade are many — life's milestones reached...success earned.
Before diving into design appointments and diamond selections, there are a few key considerations worth thinking through. Understanding your motivation, deciding between vintage or custom, establishing a realistic budget, determining what to do with your original diamond, and knowing what to expect from the design process will set you up for a fun and exciting experience.
Table of Contents
What does "upgrading an engagement ring" mean?
An engagement ring upgrade is your chance to wear the ring of your dreams. Maybe a larger center stone or better cut quality. Maybe the more refined setting work of an antique piece. Or all three! Most upgrades involve either acquiring a period piece or commission Filigree for custom work.
In some cases, modifications can be made to your existing ring, however there are limitations. Most rings can only be modified so much and are limited to the current size of the center stone.
Most upgrades start from scratch with no constraints from prior design decisions. Some clients opt to include specific design elements from the original ring—a milgrain pattern, a particular shoulder treatment, a gallery detail—and incorporate them into the the new ring. This serves to include a visual connection without limiting the new ring's potential.
Practical considerations also drive upgrades. The original ring's profile may be too high or too low and affect wearability. Over time, fingers change size too and this can affect the style of ring that would be best for daily wear.
Why would I upgrade my engagement ring?
Aesthetic preferences shift. Just 10-15 years ago, the internet played a minor role in diamond shopping...the different cuts and ring styles were not as readily available. As the internet has grown, so to has the access. Now, every option is at your fingertips and the possibilities are endless. Also, what felt substantial at 25 may read as modest at 40. Diamond shapes that maybe seemed too bold initially—oval, emerald, large cushion—now feel appropriate.
Diamond shape often becomes the first question when upgrading. Round brilliants maximize light return and surface area per carat. Ovals deliver elongation and finger coverage that can exceed round diamonds of similar weight. Emerald and Asscher cuts emphasize transparency and geometric precision. Cushions blend vintage character with contemporary presence.
Life changes also factor in. Childcare, active lifestyles, travel, and professional requirements will all influence your choice. An upgrade presents the opportunity to design around those realities: lower profiles for glove wear, proportions that balance a larger stone without becoming cumbersome.
Vintage or custom: which upgrade path fits me?
There is no wrong answer here...consider vintage if you're drawn to period-specific design elements and value the craftsmanship that separate old time work from contemporary production.
The advantage is immediate access to hand-executed details that would cost substantially more to commission today: carved galleries, complex milgrain work, precision-set calibré side stones, engraving techniques no longer in common use. At Filigree we have master jewelers that can certainly accomplish this detailing. Through our restoration work, we are well versed in antique methods.
If the idea of vintage doesn't feel like your vibe, a custom upgrade means getting exactly what you want with no limitations from existing inventory. There are many levels of custom. We can modify some of our in-house designs to creating a replica of a vintage piece, but customized to your vision.
Custom work translates your requirements into technical specifications: exact finger coverage, prong geometry optimized for your chosen stone shape, basket architecture that controls profile height, shank proportions engineered for the center stone's weight.
Custom fabrication accommodates requests that vintage or retail inventory can't satisfy: non-standard proportions, unusual stone shapes, integration with existing wedding bands, professional requirements for low-profile design, comfort features for specific hand anatomy.
How should I set a budget (based on the impact I want)?
Budget framework for an upgrade starts with defining the visual statement you want to make. Three tiers: substantial (clear increase in presence but not dominant), significant (immediate visual impact that registers across a room), or exceptional (the ring is a focal point that dominates attention).
Understand that visual impact isn't linear with carat weight. A 2.00 carat round in a well-executed halo can project the same presence as a 3.00 carat solitaire because architecture, finger coverage, and light management work in combination.
Strategic choices for maximizing visual impact within budget: Diamond shapes with efficient spread (round, oval) deliver more surface area per carat. Settings that amplify presence—halos, east-west orientations, substantial shoulder work—add finger coverage without proportional cost increases. Vintage details sourced through period pieces rather than commissioned from scratch provide character at lower investment.
What should I do with the original center stone? (earrings, pendant, cocktail ring)
Many of our clients opt to convert their original stone into jewelry that suits your current needs.
Earrings work for round, oval, and cushion diamonds in the 0.30-1.50 carat range. We source a partner stone matched for size, color, and cut characteristics, then design settings appropriate for the stones: basket or martini configurations with secure friction or screw backs for daily wear. Studs provide maximum versatility: professional-appropriate, easily paired with other earrings, low-maintenance.
Pendant/necklace configurations suit clients who prefer singular focal pieces over multiple items. Chain length decisions depend on your neckline preferences and layering habits: 16-18 inch chains position the stone at or above collarbone height; 20-24 inch chains allow lower placement and easier layering.
Cocktail ring conversion works particularly well for stones in the 0.75+ carat range or those with strong color. This transforms the original center into a deliberate statement piece for social occasions rather than competing with daily engagement ring wear. We evaluate protective settings—bezels for fragile cuts, halo configurations for added visual weight, three-stone or cluster designs if we can source compatible side stones.
Documentation protocol: retain all grading reports (GIA, AGS) and prior appraisals. Once conversion is complete, obtain updated appraisals reflecting current replacement value in the new setting—critical for insurance riders. Photograph the original ring, the loose stone during conversion, and the finished piece.
How do I design a custom engagement ring?
Your Initial consultation can be done in-person or via zoom meeting. We love it when you come prepared! Inspiration photo's are very helpful in helping us see your vision. We'll talk through your design preferences and lifestyle. We'll discuss, metal preferences, and any technical constraints that will affect design decisions. That said, if your not sure where to start, we're happy to help in any way we can. A great place to start is picking some pieces from our site that you like.
Diamond selection happens next. We review natural diamonds and colored gemstones from current inventory, evaluating each option to your specified parameters. If we do not have it in stock we'll source a curated selection so you can compare stones in person rather than relying solely on grading reports.
Once the center stone is selected, we move to technical design. Some designs will require a CAD, others will not. If we need to do a CAD, you'll review the renderings showing exact proportions, prong placement and geometry, profile height, band taper, and any pavé or engraving details.
After design approval, the creation process timeline runs approximately 45 days depending on complexity. Hand-engraving, extensive pavé work, and custom metalwork involving multiple components all can extend the timeline.
What to bring to initial consultation: photographs of inspiration rings, measurements from existing rings you wear comfortably, and detailed information about daily hand use.
Final Thoughts
Maybe it's a vintage piece with the kind of hand-carved details they don't make anymore. Maybe it's a custom design to your exact specs—the shape you've always loved.
This is your moment to get it exactly right. The ring you always wanted, built for the life you've created, with nothing held back. You've already done the hard part. Now you get to wear the proof.
